It was a beautiful morning for a marathon. Almost 15,000
runners from more than 70 nations were lined up in corrals
awaiting the start of the race on Sunday, March 18. What a
spectacular sight! The setting was mind-blowing. Behind us was
the Coliseum, the most famous landmark in Rome. Nearby was the
Imperial Forum, the archeological ruins of the original Rome
center. Both were the oldest monuments of the city-7th century
BC.In front was the huge towering Monument to Victor Emanuel II,
the first king of united Italy. Perched atop a hill and
dominating Piazza Venezia, the monument looked like a giant
wedding cake-dazzling white marble, a wall of tall columns,
fountains, topped with decorations of four-horse chariots
driven by winged gods and at the center was an equestrian
statue of King Victor.
It was a perfect day for a race. I came to Rome from Reston,
Virginia to run the marathon with twenty of my friends from the
Cairo Maadi Runners Club. (I worked in Egypt for three years
until 2004.) We had a happy encounter two days before the
Marathon when Ann and I coincidently arrived at the Rome
airport immigration line at the same time as the Cairo
contingent. In the group from Cairo were many Egyptians, mostly
women, a Canadian, an Algerian woman and several American
runners. Other Maadi alumni came from various places in Europe
and the Middle East. They came from Holland, Germany, France,
and Jordan. Again, I was the one who traveled the farthest.
I had visited Rome many times before for work and always
managed to squeeze in an extra day to see the sights. I knew
Rome fairly well, having jogged through the streets exploring
sights in all sections of the city during my exercise runs. I
also ran through the streets with the Rome Hash House Harriers
on three memorable occasions-once on the Ides of March dressed
in a toga.
Rome is known as the City of Seven Hills. When the Cairo
group first voted to do the Rome Marathon this spring, I was
concerned. I was wary about a possible hilly and, therefore,
stressful course. I found an altimetry profile for the course
on the Marathon Web site. It showed it to be mostly level. The
organizers had blessed the runners with a course that went
around the hills (not over them) and beside the Tiber River.
But past race photographs on the official marathon Web site
revealed bad news for runners. The start and finish were to be
run on cobblestones! What was not publicized or
mentioned were the several miles that runners would have to
pound their feet on hard, irregular cobblestone streets.
Anyway, it was a sunny morning in March and I was in the first
corral behind the lead runners. I had my throwaway shirt over
my shoulders, my wide-necked Gatorade bottle with me ready to
be filled before the start of the race. I almost lost the
bottle in Zurich. The security inspector at the Zurich airport
wanted to confiscate it-but I persuaded him to empty the bottle
and return it to me. I almost missed the flight connection
while he dumped the liquid in the sink.
While standing patiently in the corral, I thought over my race
strategy. I usually start races too fast and pay dearly for it
by the end of the race when I run out of gas. My previous race
was the Marine Corps Marathon five months earlier. I ran the
first portion too fast and hit the wall at Mile 18. I
struggled, walked, limped, and suffered for the last eight
miles and finished with a 4:20 marathon.
My two previous marathons were both sub-four hours. In Rome, I
planned to start slower and maintain a consistent nine minute
per mile pace. At the hotel the night before, I spent time with
my friend, Mohsen, calculating what my pace should be in
kilometers. For a sub-four hour marathon, I had to average 5:40
per kilometer.
There was a roar from thousands of runners when the cannon
fired signaling the start of the race-and we were off.
We ran on the cobblestones, then the course wound around the
Victor Emanuel Monument, up a short hill and then along the
length of the Circo Massimo-where the chariot races of ancient
Rome were held. All of these historical sights made for a
dramatic start for the marathon. Then we settled into the long
grind of mile-after-marathon-mile.
Just before the 10 kilometer mark, we came on a wide street,
lined with pink blossoming cherry trees that reminded me of
Washington, DC. I was surprised to see these flowering trees in
Rome. (It was still two weeks before the Cherry Blossom
Festival in Washington.) The towering 90-foot high Pyramid of
Cestia, built in 12 BC, loomed ahead. This was still another
amazing sight for the marathoners to enjoy.
I had been regularly checking my kilometer splits. They ranged
between 5:31 and 5:58. I was more or less on pace-but probably
a little behind pace. This was a new experience for me. I was
used to running the early miles much faster. But I continued to
hold myself back to give my new race strategy a real chance.
I was running easily, checking my splits at each kilometer
marker and enjoying the sights on the course.
After some time, behind me I heard thud-thud-thud of a
large group of runners about to catch up with me. They came
alongside and within a couple of minutes easily passed me. The
two lead pace runners had blue helium balloons tied to their
shirts floating above their heads. The balloons were
marked "3:45:00." I had started way up at the front, very close
to the start line, so it was natural for this fast group of
runners to pass me early in the race.
The course followed along the banks of the Tiber River,
crossing back and forth. We passed through the Ghetto and ran
by the 1905 Jewish Synagogue, passed the Islamic Mosque, built
in 1955, the largest in Europe, doubled back to Piazza Venezia
and followed the Tiber River toward the Vatican.
My pace for the second 10 kilometers was much slower. I
couldn't explain why. I was then running each kilometer between
6:15 and 6:26 minutes.
Behind me I again heard thud-thud-thud pounding sounds
closing in on me and gradually getting louder. A large group of
runners came alongside. They were led by two pace runners with
pink helium balloons above their heads that were
marked "4:00:00." I saw my dream of a sub four-hour marathon
disappear as this group easily passed me and ran ahead to
vanish in the distance.
The middle part of the course included Rome's main scenic
attractions. Tourists seated at outdoor cafes sipped their
cappuccinos and vino at Piazza Navona. They were more
interested in the bands, mimes and artists displaying their
wares by the Bernini fountains than they were to watch
thousands of marathoners thunder by them.
I checked my stopwatch at the half marathon point. It was
2:07:51. A quick calculation indicated that I could finish the
marathon in a bit over 4:15:00-if I could maintain the same
pace. That was a credible time-but my pace per kilometer was
constantly slowing. I ran the next ten kilometers at more than
7 minutes per kilometer.
Again, I heard the dreaded thud-thud-thud of the 4:15:00
marathon group, with red helium balloons. They came alongside
and quickly passed me. I tried to keep up with the pack of
runners but they quickly ran off and disappeared in the
distance. All I could see of that pack were two tiny red
balloons floating above the crowd.
We passed through the Piazza del Populo that contained a large
Egyptian obelisk. I wondered how my Egyptian friends would feel
about their stolen national heritage on display in this famous
piazza that was once the scene of many public executions.
We raced past the Fontana de Trevi while hoards of tourists
were busy pressing close to the fountain so they could make a
wish and toss a coin into the fountain that tradition would
guarantee their return to Rome. Not many watched the sweating
runners go by.
I cringed when I heard the familiar thud-thud-thud
pounding sounds coming up from behind me. I sped up as fast as
I could but the "4:30:00" group of runners with green helium
balloons quickly caught up and passed me-and raced off in the
distance. I was running a slow 7 minutes per kilometer pace and
could not sustain a faster pace.
The course doubled back to the Circo Massimo and the Victor
Emanuel II Monument. I was running hard and my feet were again
punished on the painful cobblestones with eight kilometers to
the finish. I kept checking my stopwatch. I wanted to at least
finish before the 4:45:00 group thudded past me.
I saw the Coliseum looming ahead. It encouraged me to run hard.
Finally I could see the official clock at the finish line. It
was ticking down the seconds to 4:45. I dug in, picked up
speed, ran hard and in a burst of speed crossed the finish
line. The clock said 4:44:20. I looked back and saw the pack of
runners in the 4:45:00 pace group thundering across the finish
line-after me.
Of all 26 marathons I finished, this was my worst time-but I
was glad I finished strong. About 12,000 runners finished the
race. What a day!