My ears hurt from the deafening uproar. Excited Belgians around me rapidly thump the blue plastic seats, clap their hands loudly, and pump their fists in the air. The small 5 feet five inch, 121-lb Ethiopian, Kenenisa Bekele, in white singlet and black shorts, passes the 24-lap mark of the 10,000 meters in 25:20, his short legs blurring. All he has to do is crank the last lap faster than 60 seconds to break the world record. Bekele flies along but you can tell he is tiring.

Twenty red, green, and white clad Burundian drummers on a stage overlooking the running track furiously pound out a rapid beat. The drumming ratchets up the pace and atmosphere to a new crescendo, but soon even their deep primeval blows are drowned out by the crowd's noise.

The entire crowd of 47,000 stands up, yelling at the top of our voices, "Allez Bekele, Allez Bekele." Tears form in my eyes as I realize I am witnessing history. James, a young collegiate runner with me, looks stunned, awed. His eyes tear up too. I hoarsely yell, "Under sixty seconds for this lap and he's got it." James cannot answer me. He shakes his head in disbelief. This is his first European track meet.

We sit half way along the back straight on the second level of the Baudouin Stadium watching the 2005 Van Damme Memorial Meet in Brussels, Belgium. The 10,000 meters is one of the meet's premiere blue ribbon events. Many world records for distance events have been surpassed here since it began in 1977.

The meet started as a memorial to Ivo Van Damme (no relation to Jean Claude Van Damme), Belgium's best-performed middle distance runner in the mid-seventies who was tragically killed in a car crash in December 1976 at age 22. Only a few months earlier he won silver medals in the 800 meters and 1500 meters events in the Olympic Games.

Following in the footsteps of such greats as Roger Moens, Gaston Roelants, Karel Lismont, and Emile Puttemans, Van Damme was the next great Belgian hope for their proud distance running tradition. Sadly mourned by both French and Flemish halves of this small, divided country of 11 million people, Van Damme's death united Belgians to show their fierce patriotism and support of its international athletes.

Today, the Van Damme Memorial Meet is considered the second best track meet in the world (after the Zurich Weltklasse Meet) by aficionados. It is known for its lightning fast performances and frequent world records in distance events.

Usually held in late August at the end of the season, its timing allows the world's best runners and field event athletes to squeeze in one last shot at setting a world record. Put together a combination of generous prize money and expenses to lure the world's best runners, jumpers, throwers, and an enthusiastic and knowledgeable crowd, and you get one of the fastest and finest track meets in the world. It is become a Mecca for track fans.

Consider these times from the 2005 Meet. Men: 100M 9.99 (Gatlin); 800M 1:44.54 (Borzakovskiy); 1500M 3:31.13 (Komen); 3000M Steeplechase 7:55.51 (Shaheen); 5000M 12:50.22 (Kipchoge); 10000M 26:17.53 (WR) (Bekele).

Bekele fights along the back straight, legs still turning over quickly. He is on pace, but looks like he might be slowing a bit. Will he make it? He struggles around the final curve and along the home straight. Finding strength from the frenzied crowd which knows he is so close, he raises a slow-motion sprint the final 50 yards. The scoreboard shows 26:17.53! He has done it! Amazing! The tall, blonde haired MC in white tuxedo dances and canters around on the green grass of the infield, yelling into his microphone, no one hearing him.

Unbelievably, during Bekele's victory lap, the crowd creates more noise than during his last lap, the din shaking the stadium, reverberating off the grandstand roof. Living in Brussels for nearly a year now, I am bemused at the Belgians letting off some serious steam, contrary to their usual self- restraint. An elated Bekele floats around the track, the green, yellow, and red Ethiopian flag wrapped around his shoulders, white teeth flashing in a permanent smile as he waves up to the crowd in the grandstands.

A fireworks display adds to the surreal atmosphere after the meet, keeping the excited Belgians talking in rapid-fire French and Flemish. Then comes a short rock concert by the Village People. Yes, I said the Village People of "YMCA" song fame. Honest to god. The Belgians love them. The VP even does a reprise of their YMCA song! In 2007, the Supremes played, continuing the tradition of bringing in groups from the '70's that most people think have long since vanished into obscurity.

Later, standing on the underground Metro station platform, the Belgians are still excitedly patting strangers on the back, laughing and talking in loud voices.

A year later, I return to the Van Damme meet. Another world record is broken, this time in the Men's 4 x 800 meter relay. Kenya just beats the USA, 7:02.43 to 7:02.82 in an exciting relay, after the U.S. led in the second leg. Fast times again! Men: 100M, 9.99 (Powell); 400M, 44.29 (Wariner); 1500M, 3:32.01 (Baala); (Shaheen); 5000M, 12:48.09 (Bekele); 10000M, 26:35.63 (Kogo).

Vivid memories of the Memorial Van Damme will stay with me for life. Part of the prestigious Golden League series, these six meets are spread around Western Europe in Oslo, Paris, Rome, Zurich, Brussels, and Berlin. A jackpot of one million dollars goes to the winner at all six of these meets, hence the name Golden League.

The $1 million in gold bars are stacked high on a table in the middle of the track, their rich luster catching the eye of many of the athletes as they trot by on their warm up. If more than one athlete wins six events, the prize money is divided between them. In 1999, the two winners Gabriela Szabo and Wilson Kipketer carried away 25 kilograms of gold bullion each!

The premiere meet of the European circuit is the Weltklasse Meet in Zurich, Switzerland. Also part of the Golden League series, the 2008 Weltklasse meet is scheduled for August 29, the excellent Athletissima meet in Lausanne, Switzerland for September 2 and the Van Damme for September 5. This compressed timing makes it possible for the North American traveler to see all three meets in 8 days, comfortably within the standard two- week vacation time constraint for most North Americans.

This great timing allows adequate time for sightseeing around Belgium, and Switzerland. France or Germany would be a good add- on sightseeing option if you were energetic. All of this is with the extra bonus of seeing world record hungry runners fresh from the Beijing Olympics (August 8-24) out to cash in on their super fitness.

Here is how to plan your ultimate track fan's vacation to see the Van Damme meet and some of Belgium while you are at it. The difficulty factor is low as long as you make your arrangements well in advance. Start your arrangements no later than January. European meets book up well in advance.

Buying tickets to the Van Damme Meet is easy on the Internet. Click on the English flag icon to get the English version. You will find ticket information listed. You will be given a choice of where to sit. What are the best seats? Most people would answer right opposite the finish line, but I have yet to sit there and have never been disappointed with my seat. These meets are so good there are no bad seats!

Book your hotel on the Internet. There are several hotels along Rue Royale, costing between 55 and 80 euros per night, all suitable for using as a base for spending a few days exploring Brussels. Located close to the Botanique Metro underground station, only one easy transfer to get to the Van Damme meet, the hotels are only 15 minutes' walk from the Grand Place and other major tourist attractions. A tramline also runs along Rue Royale.

Try the Brussels Royotel (my favorite), at 55euros/night, or Hotel Villa Royale at 80 euros/night, or Royal Crown Hotel also around 80 euros/night. The rooms are clean and small but the prices are great for their location. These hotels are in a Turkish area, with lots of cheap Turkish eateries, small grocery stores, and a laundry within a few minutes' walk. A 10- minute walk gets you to a number of other restaurants including the Brussels Grill.

If you are adding on other track meets, transport between the cities is relatively simple. Use the European rail system. It is excellent. Do not get concerned about booking the trains in advance from the U.S. or buying fancy rail passes. Plenty of trains leave each day, so buy your ticket to the next city the first day you have free after you arrive.

You will need at least three days to see the major tourist sights in Brussels, and do a day trip by train to Bruges, a beautifully preserved medieval town less than an hour northeast of Brussels. Most of the sights in Brussels are within walking or Metro (underground) distance so it is not necessary to hire a car.

With a guidebook or two, diligent use of the Internet and some solid planning you can create the dream track and field tour of your life, while seeing some of Europe's most famous sights.

Hotels Listed
Brussels Royotel, Rue Royale 312 Koningsstraat, 1210 Brussels. Rooms fully equipped, bathroom, shower, toilet, TV, direct phone line. E-mail Ph. +32 02 218 30 34

Hotel Villa Royale, 195 Rue Royale, B-1210 Brussels. E-mail Ph. +32 02 226 04 60

Royal Crown Hotel, Rue Royale 250 Koningsstraat, 1210 Brussels. E-mail Great buffet breakfasts. You can also have breakfast here even if you are not a guest.

Belgium Tourist Sights

Memorial Van Damme Track Meet